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The Amalfi Coast Your Way
A complete guide by Tasted & Traveled

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Why Praiano Wins Start with Pompeii Day-by-Day Itinerary Cooking Schools Walks & Hikes Where to Eat Practical Planning

Welcome

Everyone told me to stay in Positano.

“I didn’t listen, and it was the best decision I made on the entire trip. On my first morning in Praiano, I walked down to the local café, ordered a coffee and a cornetto, and carried them across the street to sit on a low wall in the sun. School children passed by. Neighbors caught up, went on about their day. I had nowhere to be and no one waiting on me. It was just… life, tucked into the hillside of one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world.”

This is not a tour-group itinerary. It’s a guide for independent travelers; the planners, the wanderers, the women who go solo, the ones who want to know which ferry to take and where the locals actually eat. If that’s you, keep reading.

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Where to stay

Why Praiano Wins

View from an AirBnB in Praiano overlooking the Amalfi Coast
View from my AirBnB in Praiano — this view would mean 3x the price in Positano.
Best timeLate Apr, May, Sept
Airbnb cost~$285/night
Fly intoNaples (NAP)

Positano is gorgeous; the boutiques, the pastel houses tumbling to the water. It also comes with the price tag and the crowds to match. And if you want to catch a ferry? Budget an extra 10–15 minutes to walk down to the terminal. Amalfi town is more rustic, less polished — in a way that actually makes it feel more approachable. Sorrento works well as an entry or exit point, but as a base for the coast itself, you’ll spend a lot of time in transit. Praiano has something harder to find: the feeling that you’re actually living on the Amalfi Coast rather than visiting it. Quieter at night, easier on your budget, more central than most people realize. And there’s a corner store where the locals actually shop, the kind of place where you can pick up everything you need if you decide to cook at your Airbnb and have a quiet night in. On a coast this full-on, that option is more valuable than it sounds.

Book earlier than you thinkI booked in August for early June travel, almost a year out, and still watched 8 of my 12 shortlisted Airbnbs disappear within 12 hours. If you have dates in mind, move fast.

Stairs are a fact of life everywhere, and Praiano is no different. The climb from some Airbnbs up to the main road can easily be 100 steps or more; beautiful, but worth knowing before you’ve spent a full day out and have to decide whether you really want to go to dinner. Make proximity to your bus stop part of your booking criteria. I specifically chose my Airbnb based partly on its distance to the nearest stop, a five-minute walk. On a coast where every step counts, that planning pays off.

It’s also worth knowing that the coast has some quieter gems that often get overlooked entirely. Minori, Maiori, and Atrani are all walkable from Amalfi and each has its own charm.

Don’t overlook RavelloIts beauty is otherworldly, perched up in the hills with views that stop you in your tracks. I’d consider basing myself there on a return trip. Getting there is easy — take the Amico bus (~$10), which guarantees you a seat both ways.

Before you arrive

Start with Pompeii

Pompeii ruins with Mount Vesuvius in the background
Pompeii, with Vesuvius in the distance.

If you’re flying into Naples, Pompeii is a natural first stop before heading to the coast, and it’s worth every minute. Go early, before the heat builds and the crowds arrive. Hiring a guide is absolutely worth it; ours was a retired professor and a genuine wealth of knowledge. Without a guide, it’s easy to walk through and not fully grasp what you’re seeing. With one, it comes alive.

After PompeiiHead to Bosco de Medici winery for lunch and try one of the paired menus. This is where you’ll encounter Lacryma Christi, a wine exclusive to this region, grown on the volcanic slopes of Vesuvius itself. The name means “tears of Christ,” and the mineral-rich soil gives it a character you won’t find anywhere else.

A mechanical issue turned my Paris to Naples flight around mid-air and sent me back to Charles de Gaulle. I lost four hours. Because I always build an empty day into any itinerary, I didn’t lose a thing; Pompeii ended up fitting in perfectly. Build that buffer. The coast rewards the prepared traveler.

Itinerary

Day-by-day plan

Day 1 — Praiano

Arrive, breathe, and let the coast come to you. Praiano rewards slow exploration.

Morning
The café ritual
Coffee, cornetto, and a low wall in the sun. Watch school children pass, neighbors catch up. Nobody performing for tourists. This is what Praiano gives you that Positano can’t. And whenever you get your bearings, make time to visit the Church of San Gennaro; it’s one of the most stunning stops in town.
The cafés clustered near the church are perfect for lingering over a second coffee.
Afternoon
Marina di Praia
Praiano’s small, far-less-crowded beach. A welcome retreat after the journey down from Naples. Don’t skip the Tourism Office in town; most visitors don’t even know it exists.
Use this afternoon to plan your day trips with help from the Tourism Office staff.
Evening
Dinner at Kasai
Ask for an outdoor table. Order fish; the sea bass was the meal of the trip. The Aperol spritzes were the best I had anywhere on the coast. I went twice and have zero regrets. When I arrived a few minutes early and my table wasn’t ready, the owner brought out a glass of prosecco without being asked. That’s the kind of place it is.
Reservation recommended, especially if you want a coveted outdoor table — this one fills fast.
Day 2 — Positano

Visit in the morning. By afternoon the crowds arrive and the magic dims considerably.

Morning
Arrive early
The boutiques and ceramic shops are gorgeous. Stop into the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, just steps from the marina and one of the most striking stops in town.
Browse in Positano, buy in Amalfi or Ravello. The same leather bags and sandals cost noticeably less elsewhere.
Afternoon
Lunch at Ohima
The menu changes seasonally, always a good sign, and the kitchen delivers on the promise. I ordered the octopus appetizer followed by a pizza margherita; the octopus left an impression I’m still carrying, and the margherita was exactly what it should be — simple, perfectly executed, no notes. A lunch I’d happily repeat.
Book ahead; good tables fill even at lunch.
Evening
Back to Praiano
Return by SITA bus. The quiet of Praiano after a day in Positano is one of the great pleasures of basing yourself here.
Trattoria San Gennaro is a lovely low-key dinner option tonight; unpretentious, water views, and the kind of place that makes you feel like a regular by the time dessert arrives.
Day 3 — Amalfi town

Amalfi is where you slow down and people-watch. And where you eat the best gnocchi of your life.

Morning
Cooking class at Amalfi Heaven Gardens
One of the best things I did on the entire trip. I learned to make gnocchi from scratch, along with a handful of other dishes I’m still cooking at home. Photos on the blog and on Instagram @tastedandtraveled. Book at amalfigardens.com.
Leave a bus buffer on the way there; leaving early meant I arrived relaxed instead of frantic.
Afternoon
Lemon sorbet by the water
Get the lemon sorbet served inside the lemon shell. Find a spot by the water and just sit. I gave myself a full hour and didn’t regret a minute of it. Then walk to Atrani, 20 minutes away and a completely different world.
The stroll from Amalfi through Atrani to Minori takes about an hour and is lovely the whole way.
Evening
Dinner in Atrani
Just a 20-minute walk from Amalfi. Far less touristy, far more charming. There’s also a lemon trail hike from here that’s well worth doing. Then continue on to Minori, about 40 minutes from Atrani.
La Moressa back in Praiano is a great alternative; ocean views and a standout limoncello spritz.
Day 4 — Ravello

DO NOT SKIP THIS. Ravello is my favorite place on the entire coast.

Ravello view on the Amalfi Coast
Ravello is every bit as beautiful as people say — and then some.
Morning
Café del Duomo, then the gardens
Arrive early before the day trippers. Coffee and a pastry on the square. Then Villa Rufolo or Villa Cimbrone; either will stop you in your tracks. The views are otherworldly.
Take the Amico bus up (~$10); it guarantees a seat both ways. Worth every cent.
Afternoon
Just walk
Simply strolling the streets of Ravello is more than enough. Beauty around every turn, completely removed from the tourist bustle below. Serene in a way the rest of the coast isn’t.
If you can swing an overnight, do it. Once the day visitors leave, the town becomes something else entirely.
Evening
Dinner at Babel, then limoncello
A small, lively bistro a few minutes from the square; seek it out. Outstanding pasta. Then stop at Gusti e Delizie for limoncello on the way out. I left with pasta di Gragnano, lemon-infused olive oil, and a high-quality balsamic, and they shipped everything home for me.
The difference between limoncello here and near a ferry dock is not subtle.
Day 5 — Capri

Capri deserves a full day minimum; I only managed a half day and barely scratched the surface.

Morning
Early ferry, straight to Anacapri
Take the first ferry and head straight up to Anacapri before the crowds arrive. Ferry tickets run around €30. Ferries don’t run in rough seas; build flexibility into any Capri plans.
Confirm the last ferry departure time before you lose track of time on the island.
Afternoon
Blue Grotto boat tour
Getting inside depends on the tides; I’ve heard from travelers who couldn’t enter, though they still loved the ride around the coast. Go for the experience either way.
Avoid restaurants near the ferry docks entirely. Walk further in and you’ll eat much better.
Evening
Pizza at Bar Corallo
Right on the waterfront. Delicious Neapolitan pizza, fast and attentive service. Like Ravello, if you can swing a night on Capri, do it. The island transforms once the day trippers head home.
Ferry back to Positano, then SITA bus to Praiano.
Day 6 — Hidden gems

The spots most people drive past. Don’t be most people.

Morning
Fiordo di Furore
One of those beaches that makes you feel like you found a secret; small, tucked away, far less crowded than the main spots. Take the SITA bus and walk down from the stop, or arrange a private driver.
Worth every bit of the effort to get there.
Afternoon
Minori & Maiori
Both walkable from Amalfi; the stroll through Atrani to Minori takes about an hour and is lovely the whole way. Each town has its own quieter charm. Worth the walk even if you don’t stay long.
I’ve heard from travelers who walked down from Ravello to Minori and found it easy and enjoyable.
Evening
Private chef dinner
On my last night, I hired Vittorio Gagliano to cook a five-course dinner paired with wine on my terrace overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. An indulgence and worth every penny. vittoriogagliano.com
He used to cook at Kasai; no wonder every bite felt familiar in the best possible way.

For the food lovers

Cooking schools worth knowing about

Homemade gnocchi from an Amalfi Coast cooking class
Learning to make gnocchi from scratch at Amalfi Heaven Gardens.

A cooking class is one of the most popular things to do on the Amalfi Coast, and for good reason. You leave with something you’ll actually use at home. I looked into several schools before booking, and a few things drew me to Amalfi Heaven Gardens specifically: something about it just felt right, and practically speaking, Amalfi is the most convenient stop from Praiano, which matters when you’re planning a full day out. That said, the other schools below are all well-regarded, and the right choice really depends on where you’re based and what you want out of the experience.

Amalfi Heaven Gardens cooking class setting
A cooking class here is more than a meal — it is one of the best ways to bring the coast home with you.
Amalfi, my personal pick
Amalfi Heaven Gardens
Where I made gnocchi from scratch and never bought store-bought again. Set in a beautiful garden above the town, with a warm, hands-on atmosphere. Book at amalfigardens.com.
Positano, most scenic
La Gavitella Cooking Classes
Widely considered one of the most scenic options on the coast; a professional kitchen with a breathtaking view of Capri and Positano. Local chefs walk you through traditional recipes, and you can spend the rest of the day at the property’s beach club. Hard to beat that combination. lagavitella.it
Ravello, innovative and intimate
Chef Diego Criscuolo, Valle delle Ferriere
Set against the backdrop of Ravello, Chef Diego teaches you to use the simplest ingredients to prepare surprisingly nuanced dishes, combining tradition with a more modern touch. A good fit if you want something a little more chef-school and a little less farmhouse. valledelleferriere.it
Positano, the famous one
Mamma Agata
The cooking school most beloved by Hollywood stars and one of the most well-known on the entire coast. You’ll cook with vegetables picked from the family garden and learn to make authentic limoncello. If this is on your bucket list, book early; it fills up fast and has earned its reputation. mammaagata.com
A few things to look for in any classSmall group sizes, hands-on cooking rather than just watching a demonstration, and ingredients sourced locally. The best classes on this coast connect you to the food culture, not just the recipe.

For those with good shoes

Walks & hikes worth doing

Walking is part of the experience, but go in with realistic expectations. Stairs and steep hills are everywhere. Comfortable, broken-in shoes are non-negotiable on this coast.

The Path of the Gods
Challenging · Convento di San Domenico to Positano
One of the most celebrated hikes in the world, challenging at times but absolutely otherworldly. Start early and wear proper hiking shoes with a good sole. The views are unlike anything else on the coast.
The Path of the Lemons (Sentiero dei Limoni)
Easy to Moderate · Maiori to Minori · ~3km · 1 to 2 hours
Where the Path of the Gods is dramatic, the Path of the Lemons is intimate. This ancient route connecting Maiori and Minori was once used by farmers carrying sfusato amalfitano lemons down to the coast. You’re enveloped in the scent of citrus, passing terraced lemon groves with the deep blue of the sea below. Around 400 steps up and 400 down, well-marked and far less crowded than the bigger hikes. Finish in Minori and reward yourself with an iced lemon granita at the café at the bottom.
Amalfi to Minori via Atrani
Easy · About 1 hour · Flat coastal walk
A perfect excuse to stop in Atrani along the way. Don’t skip the lemon trail hike from there if you have the legs for it. The full walk gives you a sense of how these towns connect to each other at sea level.
Ravello to Minori descent
Easy to moderate · Downhill through the hills
I’ve heard from travelers who walked this and found it easy and enjoyable; a beautiful way to experience the hillside landscape and arrive in Minori feeling like you earned your lunch.

A former chef’s honest picks

Where to eat

Dinner at Kasai in Praiano
Dinner at Kasai in Praiano — one of the meals I would happily repeat.

Let me be direct: the Amalfi Coast is not the place to play it safe with food. The seafood is pulled from the water right in front of you, the tomatoes are San Marzano grown in the shadow of Vesuvius, and the pasta is made by people who learned from their grandmothers. Eat accordingly. Order seafood — always. It’s fresh, it’s regional, and it’s what this coast does better than anywhere else. For pasta, lean toward lighter broths or tomato-based sauces rather than heavy cream — you’re close to Naples here, and the simplicity is the point. Avoid anyone standing at the door trying to wave you in; laminated menus, no locals in sight, photos of every dish. Walk past.

Praiano, go twice
Kasai
Ask for an outdoor table; it’s worth the extra step. I went twice, ordered fish both times, zero regrets. The sea bass was the meal of the trip. The Aperol spritzes were the best on the coast. When I arrived a few minutes early and my table wasn’t ready, the owner brought out a glass of prosecco without being asked. That’s the kind of place it is.
Dinner at La Moressa on the Amalfi Coast
La Moressa: ocean views, good pasta, and a limoncello spritz worth ordering.
Praiano, ocean views
La Moressa & La Posteria
Owned by the same family and couldn’t be more different. La Moressa is perched up with sweeping ocean views and a pasta-heavy menu; go for lunch if you can, don’t leave without the limoncello spritz. La Posteria is the local steakhouse, smaller, more intimate, reservation recommended. Yes, steaks and seafood in the same sentence work perfectly here.
Praiano, feels like family
Trattoria San Gennaro
Across from the church with water views. Unpretentious, warm, and the kind of place that makes you feel like a regular by the time dessert arrives. Exactly what Italian dining should feel like.
Positano, seasonal and perfect
Ohima
The menu changes seasonally, which is always a good sign, and the kitchen delivers on the promise. The octopus appetizer and a pizza margherita — the octopus left an impression I’m still carrying, and the margherita was exactly what it should be. Simple, perfectly executed, no notes.
Ravello, seek it out
Babel
A small, lively bistro a few minutes’ walk from the main square, off the beaten path. The owner seemed to be running the whole show, and the pasta was outstanding. The kind of place you stumble onto and never forget.
Capri, waterfront
Bar Corallo
Right on the waterfront. Delicious Neapolitan pizza, fast and attentive service. A solid choice before or after exploring the island, and a world away from the overpriced traps near the docks.
On limoncello
Gusti e Delizie, Ravello
Skip the tourist shops near the ferry docks. Go somewhere you can sample before you buy. Gusti e Delizie is exactly that kind of place; I left with pasta di Gragnano, lemon-infused olive oil, and a high-quality balsamic, and they shipped everything home for me. The difference between limoncello bought here and near a ferry dock is not subtle.

Practical planning

What you need to know

Don’t rent a car
SITA buses are reliable; Google Maps is surprisingly accurate for stops and timing. Ferries (~€30/trip) beat the road every time. Taxis are ~€80 for 10 miles, so use them sparingly. Bus tickets are a couple of euros, bought at local cafés.
Factor in the stairs
Your Airbnb could be 100+ steps from the road. Choose accommodation partly based on distance to the bus stop; I did, and it made a real difference. On a coast where every step counts, that planning pays off.
What to pack
Broken-in walking shoes are non-negotiable, but bring sandals; evenings here feel like an occasion. A crossbody bag with a secure clasp for valuables always. A light scarf for churches. A packable rain jacket always.
Apps to download
UNICO Campania (bus schedules), Ferry Hopper (ferry routes), Google Lens (points at any Italian menu and translates instantly), Airalo (eSIM for data without roaming). A working phone is not optional on this coast.
Book a private driver from Naples airportArriving into Naples with luggage, jet-lagged, and trying to navigate public transport to the coast is nobody’s idea of a good start. I used Rosario Ruuco; he waited 4 hours through a delay with a smile, then drove me through the hills via a back route most tourists never see. Several friends I’ve sent his way have given him five-star reviews without hesitation. Instagram: @amalficoastdriver / WhatsApp: +39 334 871 9903
When to goShoulder season wins every time — late April into early May, or September. Avoid going too early in spring; some restaurants are still closed and rougher seas disrupt ferries. Winter is largely off the table — much of the coast shuts down between November and March. Peak summer is hot, crowded, and the buses will test your patience. It’s still beautiful, but shoulder season is a different experience entirely.
One last thingA buongiorno, buona sera, grazie, and prego go a long way. Locals genuinely appreciate the effort, however small.

Before you go

🍋

The coast will meet you there.

I wasn’t prepared for the urgency. Not the pace of the trip, but the feeling, almost immediate, that I needed to find a way back. That’s what the Amalfi Coast does to you.

If you’re planning your own Amalfi Coast adventure, don’t leave without grabbing my free Amalfi Coast Planning Toolkit. It includes my packing list, transportation cheat sheet, essential travel apps, booking timeline, and personal planning tips.

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© Tasted & Traveled. Please don’t share or reproduce without permission. · Tag me @tastedandtraveled when you use this guide!