Split and Dubrovnik, Croatia: What I Loved, Ate and Learned

I planned Croatia, then Croatia had other plans. I didn’t have minute-by-minute plans, because that’s how I travel now, but I knew what I wanted to see. I had two nights in Split, two nights in Dubrovnik, a ferry ride down the coast, restaurants I wanted to try, neighborhoods I wanted to wander, and more than a few Croatian wines I hoped to taste along the way.

And then, somewhere between Greece and Split, I got sick. Not catastrophically sick. Just the kind of travel cold that makes you feel miserable enough to reconsider anything involving a hill, a long walk, or being too far away from your hotel.

So Croatia became all about playing things by ear. And, strangely enough, I think I liked it even more because of it.

Split Was Not Quite What I Expected

My hotel in Split, Hotel Kastel, put me right in the middle of everything, inside the walls of Diocletian’s Palace and steps from the Riva. Location-wise, I couldn’t have asked for much more.

What I hadn’t fully anticipated was the heat or the cruise ships. There were two in port when I arrived, and Split felt busy, really busy. I had pictured myself wandering through Diocletian’s Palace, exploring the old streets and eventually making my way toward Marjan.

Instead, I quickly learned that the best version of Split, at least for me, happened early. On my second morning, I was at Stow Coffee Roasters before 8. I wandered through Fruit Square while it was still quiet, sat near the Cathedral steps, and eventually enjoyed the beach along the Riva around 9. Before the crowds really arrived, Split felt completely different. That became one of my favorite little lessons from Croatia: sometimes you don’t need to find a different place; you just need to find a different time to see it.

I still saw Diocletian’s Palace and the Cathedral, walked the Riva, Fruit Square, Matejuška, Varoš and Marjan, and spent plenty of time simply wandering. But I gave up on the idea that I needed to accomplish everything I had mapped out before I arrived.

I was hot; I had a cold. Croatia wasn’t going anywhere. And then there was lunch.

The Lunch That Turned Into a Croatian Wine Tasting

Bokeria wasn’t a reservation I had carefully planned around. I walked in, asked for a table, and somehow ended up tucked into the perfect little corner. Before I’d even ordered, I remember sitting there admiring the restaurant itself and having that feeling you sometimes get when traveling: I made the right choice. I just had no idea just how right it would turn out to be.

I started with soparnik, a traditional Dalmatian dish I wanted to try, and eventually ordered the squid ink risotto. And somewhere in between, I started talking to my waiter, Herbage, about Croatian wine.

This is one of the ways WSET has changed how I travel. While I don’t necessarily drink more wine, I ask better questions. Croatia is where Zinfandel originated, so naturally I was curious to try it here. When I mentioned that to Herbage, he seemed genuinely impressed that I knew the connection. And that was really where the conversation took off.

He started talking to me about Croatian wines with this incredible combination of knowledge and pride. We talked about what I was eating, what I should try with it, and the wines being produced here. What had started as a spontaneous lunch slowly turned into my own little Croatian wine tasting.

But it wasn’t only his wine knowledge that stood out. The entire meal had this almost white-glove level of service that I wasn’t expecting. Herbage paid attention to every detail while still making the experience feel warm and personal. And there was so much pride in the way he talked about Croatian food and wine.

It wasn’t until I spoke with the manager afterward that everything clicked. Herbage is on the sommelier track, and the manager told me he had previously worked in Michelin-rated restaurants and restaurants with wine lists approaching 1,000 bottles. Suddenly, the service I’d just experienced made perfect sense. Without a doubt, it was some of the best meal service I’ve ever experienced.

The food was excellent, and the Croatian wines were fascinating. But the reason I’ll remember that lunch is Herbage.

Taking the Long Way to Dubrovnik

There are faster ways to get from Split to Dubrovnik; I took the ferry, and I would do it again.

After several days of planes and airports, there was something wonderful about simply boarding a boat in Split and traveling down the Croatian coast. No security lines. No airport transfer. Just the Adriatic outside the window and several hours to watch Croatia go by.

By early afternoon, I was in Dubrovnik, staying right inside the Old Town at Akademis Gariste.

Dubrovnik Before Everyone Else Wakes Up

If Split taught me to get up early, Dubrovnik confirmed it. I was at the City Walls when they opened at 8 a.m., and for the next two hours, I walked above the Old Town with the Adriatic on one side and those unmistakable terracotta rooftops on the other.

It was stunning and also one of those experiences where timing matters enormously. Even without cruise ships on that particular Saturday, by later in the day, Dubrovnik felt packed. But early in the morning, walking those walls before the biggest crowds arrived, I understood exactly why people fall in love with this place.

Afterward, I sat down at Cafe Festival with a huge sparkling water and orange juice and felt like I’d already had a full day. And it wasn’t even lunchtime; after this, the rest of Dubrovnik became much less structured.

I ate Croatian cheese and drank Croatian wine at Gradska Kavana, where the grilled squid was so good I would happily order it again tomorrow. It is definitely a touristy spot, but I lucked out with a table overlooking the old port, and the food and service lived up to the location. Another great restaurant was Public Old Town for swordfish skewers, which I found by wandering through the side streets without a plan. And then there were the plans that simply didn’t happen, which have their own kind of beauty.

The cable car was out. Other things I had considered doing lost out to the reality of only having so much time, still not feeling 100 percent, and realizing that sometimes the best thing to do in Dubrovnik is just be in Dubrovnik.

Croatia Made Me Want More Croatia

Four nights were enough to introduce me to Croatia, but it was nowhere near enough to satisfy me. And that was probably the biggest surprise. I went on this trip excited about Greece, curious about Croatia, and already knowing I would like Ireland.

I left Croatia thinking about Zagreb, Plitvice Lakes, the islands, and more of the coast. And how easy it would be to add a few days in Bosnia and Montenegro the next time around. Apparently, my response to not seeing everything in Croatia was to start planning an even bigger Croatia trip.

There was also something about traveling here alone that worked for me. I could wake up early when I wanted to. Walk into a restaurant because it looked right. Sit over a glass of wine talking to a waiter far longer than expected. Abandon a plan because it was too hot. Go back to the hotel because I felt lousy. Nobody cared, and that freedom became part of the trip and the beauty of solo travel, which I have come to love and embrace over the last couple of years.

A Note About Flying Around This Part of Europe

One thing I’ll pay closer attention to in the future is the total cost and baggage rules on regional flights. My Aegean business-class ticket from Athens to Croatia cost more upfront, but my baggage was included, and the airport experience was easy.

My Aer Lingus flight from Dubrovnik to Dublin was booked using Alaska miles, but baggage was the wildcard. I couldn’t add my checked bags online before the flight, so I arrived at the airport not knowing exactly what they’d cost. In the end, Aer Lingus checked both bags for free, which was a pleasant surprise.

Still, it reinforced something worth remembering when comparing regional flights in Europe: the fare or number of miles isn’t necessarily the whole story. If you’re traveling with checked luggage, look at baggage allowances, seat selection and other fees before deciding which option is actually the better deal. I have become spoiled by my Delta status and don’t even think about checked bags, but it’s a whole different dynamic flying inside of Europe with different airlines.

I Think Croatia and I Have Unfinished Business

I didn’t make it to the islands or Plitvice, and I didn’t drink enough Croatian wine. Or maybe I did pretty well there. Either way, there’s always more research to be done. And I’m learning that the research is actually pretty fun.

Mostly, I left wanting more, and that is probably the best thing I can say about a place. Croatia wasn’t the part of this trip that went most smoothly, but it might have been the part that made me most excited to return. So far, only Italy has had this effect on me, but I am happy to return to Croatia.

And I have a feeling I will. Very soon.